It can bring some nature and color into your design. I've seen people hang fake foliage, like leafy vines, along them too. This works for more rustic and country homes more than modern and minimally designed rooms. Though some people will paint them the same color as the wall behind them to make them blend in, making them pop visually is a much cooler option, using a complementary color to paint them or incorporating the same pipes around the room in other places.Īlternatively, you can create decorative pipe covers that can even add thermal insulation to air conditioning ducts. It's chic to have exposed plumbing these days and many people consider it a feature.
Let's start with this because it's the easiest and actually in fashion now. Make the Plumbing Pipes Stand Out (or Blend in) Well, here's what you can do! You can get creative and work these exposed pipes into the decor of the room or create a way to hide them behind or within a functional (and attractive) piece of furniture or decoration. It'd be preferable if they were built inside the walls but what can you do. Plumbing isn't going anywhere and unfortunately sometimes, especially in older homes or in big cities where the structures are permanent and made of brick as an example, lots of piping and air conditioning ducts are added on the exterior of our walls. Rather than try to break up the methods across each room, I'll simply list them out and you can apply the ones that make sense for your personal situation. Let's look at the 12 best ways to cover pipes. What's nice is they're all fairly cheap to get done and the differing methods can be adjusted for everyone's budget. It's hard to think outside of the box!įortunately we've all put our heads together online and shared all the various ways to conceal pipes, whether on the exterior of your home, in your basement ceiling, in the laundry room, or in the bathroom. Finding creative ways to hide exposed pipes is tough, especially if you've never been introduced to them first. Maybe you bought a new house or are looking to remodel a few rooms. Double check your measurements before screwing the piece in place so you don’t risk a lopsided bench.Step 6 - Optional: Put the Finishing Touches on Your BenchOnce your bench is assembled, it’s ready for use! However, you may want to sand the edges or add decorative elements using a router.Add paint or varnish to seal the wood for outdoor use.Updated: | Categories: Do-It-Yourself, Interiors Make sure the back legs line up with your front legs. This can be altered if you’d like to add more planks to your back, but you may need to cut them to different widths so they fit in the space created.Once the back panel is securely assembled, attach the piece to the seat and arm rests. Attach the finished bench seat so that the top of the seat is 16” off the ground.Step 5 – Assemble and Attach the Back of the BenchAttach the back pieces together, leaving equally spaced gaps between the back planks. This will create two separate right angles. While it is possible to create a completely gap-free seat for your bench, changes in weather and temperature can cause your wood to expand and contract, leading to cracks or warping in your bench seat if planks are too close together.Step 4 - Attach the Arm RestSecure the front legs to the arm rest pieces. Since the top is 80 by 36 inches, the two rectangular frames needed to be 76 by 32 inches. The frame for the workbench consists of two rectangles 76 inches long, by 32 inches wide made from 2X4s, and four legs 32 inches long, also made from 2X4s.I wanted the top of the workbench to overhang the frame by 2 inches on every side to allow for easily clamping things to the top of the bench. The screws cost about $6 per box, and the angle brackets were a couple of dollars each.The toolsThe tools that were used for constructing the workbench consisted of:A power mitre box saw for cutting the 2X4s to length.A cordless screw gun for driving in the screws.A cordless drill for pre-drilling screw holes.A tape measure.A carpenter’s square.A pencil.(Optional) A brad nailer and brad nails.Cordless tools aren't necessary to build the workbench, but if you have access to them, they make life a lot easier. Select straight pieces without twists, splits, or a lot of large knots for best resultsThe screws and 6 steel angle brackets also came form the local big box store.
A salvaged door that had been drilled and mortised can also be used, and probably can be had even cheaper.The 8 foot 2X4s only cost about $3 each at a local big box homecenter store. There was some damage to the veneer, which made it unwanted by most people, but it was perfect for my application.
It was a brand new door that had never been drilled for a lockset or mortised for hinges.
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